Friday, September 24, 2010

BOJJANA KONDA AT ANAKAPALLI

Revisiting Buddhism
G. Suryanarayana

G. Suryanarayana visits Bojjana Konda, near Visakhapatnam, where he comes across architectural remnants of the Buddhist period.



A monolithic statue of the Buddha at Bojjana Konda
The philosophy of Buddhism was propounded when the Sakya prince Siddhartha rose in reaction to the excesses of orthodox religion, sight of sickness, old age and death, which urged him to search for enlightenment. And Buddhism spread across India and many places in India became centres for propagation of Buddhism. In Andhra Pradesh, Amaravati and Nagarjuna Konda in Guntur districts, Bojjana Konda, Thotla Konda, Bhavi Konda and Salihundam around Visakhapatnam were centres of Buddhism during the second century A.D. Several Buddhist monuments such as stupas and chaityas were erected at these places. It is said that some of the corporal relics of the Buddha were preserved at these places. Hence all these places became sacred places. Bojjana Konda, near Sankaram village in the hamlet of Anakapalli, 40 km from Visakhapatnam, is one such place, where one can find architectural remnants of the Buddhist period, one of the earliest of its class in South India. It constitutes one of the most remarkable groups of Buddhist monuments dated from 200 B.C. to 700 A.D., found during excavations in 1906. On the eastern hill, there are a series of rock-cut caves, numerous groups of monolithic dagobas, standing on rock platform in tiers above each others and, crowning all, a rock-cut stupa with extensive structural remains. On the western side of the eastern hill is a stairway, partly rock-cut and partly structural, which leads up to a large double-storied cave. The cave is entered by a doorway and is flanked on each side by huge dwarapalas. The cave chamber is rectangular in shape and is divided into 20 compartments by four cross rocks of 16 massive pillars. In the centre is the rock-cut stupa standing on a square platform.
Similarly, the upper cave is entered by a rectangular doorway, which is flanked by a Buddha figure on each side. The cave has a majestic figure of Buddha in bhoomisparsa meditation posture. The rock-cut stupa and the figure of Buddha are the main tourist attractions here. Outside the cave, there are several votive stupas leaning out of the natural rock with domes that give us a classic view of the surroundings.
On the top of the hill, there is a group of structural buildings clustering around a chaitya and vihar complex. The ruins found here represent both the Hinayana and the Mahayana phases of Buddhism. There is a row of cells, which the monks are believed to have used as their residential quarters in those days. They were called viharas or the Buddhist monastery.


The trek to the caves of Bojjana Konda could be a little tiresome but are nevertheless rewarding

In the western side of Bojjana Konda, another hill called Lingala Konda, where one can find a number of monolithic and structural stupas on the top, also attracts tourists. The entire landscape with lush green fields surrounding the hills provides a tranquillising view. Today, Bojjana Konda attracts many Buddhist pilgrims from several countries, especially during Buddha Poornima (Vaisakha Poornima).
The Archaeological Department, with the help of the Andhra Pradesh Tourism Board and the District administration of Visakhapatnam, has taken over the development and maintenance of the place. The other Buddhist settlements around Visakhapatnam are Thotlakonda and Bhavikonda. AP Tourism, Vizag Urban Development Authority (VUDA) and the District Administration of Visakhapatnam have taken up several developmental projects for the benefit of tourists. Both these places are on the sea-front, which adds to the spectacular view. Lumbini Festival is an annual event that is held here and it attracts several pilgrims from across the country.

Pictures by the author

Fact file

Getting there: Visakhapatnam is situated mid-way between Chennai and Kolkata. It is connected to Chennai, Mumbai, Hyderabad and Kolkata by air and train.
Accommodation: Visakhapatnam offers excellent hotel accommodation to meet all budgets. AP Tourism provides comfortable accommodation at Yatri Nivas on the sea front.
Getting around: AP Tourism provides hi-tech tourist cabs for daily sightseeing.






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